The Counterfeit Brit

8/18/08

 

            I work with Aussies. The surfer sort. Naturally, up here on the North Sea, they're  often in it.

 

This little Nebraska girl, on the other hand, has lived near the sea two months now, and hadn't been so much as knee-deep. So yesterday, I thought I'd go with them.

 

Bravely, I set out for the cliff-top slipway headed for the beach. As we reached the cliff's edge, we saw it was low tide. Really, really low tide. Dogs were chasing tennis balls where boats usually float. Not that that made any difference to me; I just wanted to play in the water on a sunny day.

 

We left our flip-flops on a rock and headed for the next town, where we'd get in and swim back. Yes, the next town. These Aussies don't just stick their feet in the water, bob in the waves, and settle for a sunburn like the prototypical pale, lumpy Brit vacationer family. These Aussies travel, via flutter kick. Today it was to be Cromer to Overstrand: two miles, and this was no UNL Rec Center swimming pool. Was this the time to tell them I'd never been in the sea? No, no. Pride won, as usual: "Play it cool, Kerri. Above all, don't die. Then they'll know for sure what a sissy you are."

 

We walked on the beach. Then we walked some more. They brought a rugby ball and let me try to throw it, American football-style (result: ineffective). We kept walking, and I grew more and more nervous for the swim, knowing that each step I took farther from home, the harder I'd have to work to get back. And the breeze off the sea was growing rather chilly.

 

We reached the jumping-in spot, which is really a gross exaggeration of how we entered the water. We waded. And waded, and waded, and waded, until the rocky bottom was far enough underfoot so as not to bloody our noses. And it was there, friends, about waist-deep off the coast of East Anglia, that I had to redefine my notion of "cold." In the bright sunshine, with beachgoers soaking up the rays and vendors selling ice cream, I realized that my expectations had been a bit skewed. This was 16.5 degrees Celsius, 62 degrees Fahrenheit, and for a dramatic interpretation of my reaction, I'd recommend a viewing of "Titanic."

 

But unlike silly Jack, who froze himself to a table, I thought I'd at least give hypothermia a fight by swimming. (Plus there were no handsome Victorian furnishings available for clinging.) So the saga began, if very, very slowly. "They usually do this in 45 minutes?" I thought, convinced my colleagues had grown fins and were simply swimming slowly for my sake. 40 minutes, 20 numb fingers and toes, a third of the way, and my very first litre of swallowed sea water into the swim, they informed me the current was pushing us backward. Lovely, me thought. This explained why the lighthouse was still where it had been fifteen minutes ago.

 

            And so we swam, and swam, and swam, until, while treading water for a moment to rest, I scraped my knee in sand and stood up. This would be the end of our swim; the shallow water stretched out into the sea for another hundred yards. We walked the rest, digging our feet into the sand, cutting them on the rocks and trudging against the current, simply to say that we made it.

 

            Well, we made it. I haven't got enough oomph in my arms to lift this laptop, my mouth still feels like I've just eaten six salted pretzels, I'll never get the sand out of my ears, and my hair (two washes later) still smells like imitation crab meat. Probably I'll sleep here in this chair tonight because my legs refuse to climb the 17 stairs to my bed, but, hey, I made it. And I might try it again someday.

 

 

The Counterfeit Brit

8/26/2008

 

Right now, there are gypsies living 50 yards from my bedroom. I watched them paint their house today.
Yep, true. Thanks to a break in Brit summer camp and the coolest (albeit only) Hungarian coworker/tour guide/translator/chauffeur/travel agent I’ve ever had, I’ve made myself a stowaway on her trip home, and aside from living next to gypsies, I’ve been treated like “herceg no,” a princess.

 

If you didn’t know I was going to Hungary, don’t feel out of the loop. I didn’t even know I was going to Hungary until two weeks ago. I couldn’t get the flight with Serena, my travel-mate, so when I finally got through the corridors at Budapest, past passport control (huzzah for a Hungary stamp and a successful exchange of greetings in Hungarian!) Serena was waiting in an immense crowd of six in the entire terminal, and she had a sign, just in case the other five tried to play impostor: “KERRI MOLCZYK,” scrawled in blue pen. (Funny, but I’ve secretly always wanted one of those signs.) Her parents snapped pictures furiously and her father handed me the most beautiful rose in Europe. In my broken and horrendous Hungarian, learned entirely from neon-colored flashcards I created sitting against the Krispy Kreme donuts booth in Brit bank-holiday Luton airport, I sort of told them thanks and that I was pleased to meet them.

 

They. Freaked. Out.

English custom is to shake hands and pretend to be posh. American custom is to shake hands and decide whether or not to memorize the name of the person you’ve just met. Hungarian custom, as far as I can tell, is to hug, kiss cheeks, clap, squeal, smile, give you chocolate, ask to adopt you, take sixteen photos of you with airplane hair, and speak back to you as quickly as possible in a language you’ve never heard before. (By the way, the Hungarian for chocolate sounds like “chocolate,” which is handy.)

 

A forty minute car ride southwest of Budapest, and I’ve wowed them by counting to five and pointing to and saying “templom,” which means “church.” I’ve started to feel like a movie star, or at least a three-year-old out of her car seat.

 

We arrived home to Albertirsa, a town of 13,000, and after two hours’ drive, five hours in an airport, and three hours’ flight on easyJet, whose slogan is “no pretzels, just flying,” I was hungry, and when Serena asked, I told her so.

 

This is apparently a Hungarian woman’s ideal situation.
Her mother, whom I now call “Anyu,” (“Mom”), waved a magic pot holder and thus appeared what Nebraskan women call a casserole. It was miraculously steaming hot, and it wasn’t a sausage, was never a potato, and it did not necessitate the use of ketchup. After seven weeks of British summer camp food, Hungary made an impeccable first impression, despite the fact that I had no idea what I consumed. I quickly learned how to say “No, thanks, I’m very, very full,” though travelers be advised: use this phrase sparingly, lest you elicit tears from your chef.

 

We finally dragged our full bellies and baggage home to Serena’s house. Compared to my cubby hole under the stairs in the house at the summer camp, hers is a villa: high ceilings, wood floors, French doors, lush garden, handmade rattan furniture, and not a portrait of vermin in sight. The entire living room is the color of an overripe banana, however, and we quickly made plans to change that.

 

A thunderstorm broke, so, unable to sleep, we spent two hours enriching my sparse Hungarian while the Nebraska-esque weather finished its temper tantrum. The last thing I remember from last night is wondering, without a decent answer, if I ever imagined I’d sleep sprawled facedown like a starfish two doors from house-painting gypsies.

 

 

The Counterfeit Brit goes to Dublin

Tuesday, September 9, 2008 at 4:54am

 

I’ve come to understand that foreign travel, no matter how wonderful, will never go smoothly, and in the end, the best that can be hoped for is that you and all your valuables sleep under a roof, with bonus points if it’s the same one.

Because tourist season in Ireland is waning, I got stellar deals on airfare and accommodation for a Monday-Friday stay in the middle of tourist Dublin. I am, after all, 59% Irish, so I’m calling it a search for some roots. So far, I’ve only been able to turn up refrigerator magnets that say Kerry. Nil on the Naughtin front, less on the Molczyk one.

I left the house at a quarter-to-six to catch the sleepy quarter-to-seven train which would go to another train which would go to another train which would go to the airport. Usually the walk to the station takes an hour, but due perhaps to a lack of sleep, I found myself running behind, and was thus privileged with a jog at sunrise, and thus spent the rest of the day spent marinating in my own goo. Oh, the mornings for my deodorant stick to break across the bathroom floor.

When it was time to change trains, I’ve learned my best bet is to ask the kindly older conductor-types which train to get on. (Note: It helps if you sound slightly pathetic.) Strategy proved a good ‘un, and I made it to the airport on time. Sort of. I didn’t throw any elbows, but I did “Pardon me” my way down the super-cool moving walkways to get to my gate.

Another note: When you’re running through the corridors of London Stansted, you will be glad you packed lightly. I’ve got one purse. That’s it. Yes, really, Mom. It’s a big one, mind, but still o-n-e purse. My allotted airport Ziploc bag of soap, two tops, a pair of trousers that double as pajamas, a scarf, assorted underthings, and my laptop. A microfiber cloth is my “towel.” Zero extra shoes, jewelry, or belts. Let’s just hope I don’t accidentally meet Colin Farrell, because I anticipate smelling and looking mighty funny by the time I get home.

I got a window seat on the flight, and the clouds broke up, showing me Ireland from the sky. I got a little teary-eyed thinking of my immigrant ancestors who last saw Ireland in the sea behind them.

The sentimental moment ended with the bumpkin English couple next to me squabbling about airplane hot chocolate is better than airplane cappuccino. I wanted to tell them to just order tea and shut it like proper Brits. (I get cranky when I’m the only one without caffeine.)

We landed on time, and I stood in the Non-European Union line at border control for a half hour. I had a nice chat with the immigration officer (as chats with immigration officers usually go, as they are world-renowned for their senses of humor on the topics of controlled substances and foot and mouth disease), during which I promised I was only staying until Friday sir, yes sir, just being a tourist sir, thank you sir. In a heartrending display of emotion, he then wished me an enjoyable stay. Aw.

Outside, the sun was actually shining, and I quickly found a bus to the city centre. Not just any bus, though – a double-decker one (green of course), and I got the front seat on the top deck! We rode past groups of Catholic schoolchildren in uniform, the old Dublin walls, the General Post Office where a group of revolutionaries fought for Irish Independence in 1916, and, naturally, a Burger King.

My hostel is right on the River Liffey, and I’m in the penthouse. I share the room with seven strangers; for $15 a night, you can’t demand privacy AND having all your valuables (they’re in a locker downstairs.) As a double bonus, my top bunk is up against a wall of windows overlooking the river and the roofs of Dublin. Needless to say, I’m finding it difficult to persuade myself away from reading a book and absorbing the view, but there are refrigerator magnets to buy and ancestors to find.

 

 

The Counterfeit Brit

9/16/2008

 

Last you heard from me, I was in Dublin on a Tuesday morning, had lots to see and do, and, crucial to most adventuring, I still had some money.

When the sun broke through the rain Tuesday, I decided to try to find actual Irish accents and stories, a virtual impossibility in the center of tourist Dublin, which is 78% English or American and 21% European or homeless. So I found some hot food (looked yellow and resembled chicken) sold by the kilo in a quick shop (actual food is $15 a meal in “cheap” places) and took a train south to a village called Bray.

Most trains allow passengers to sit facing the front of the train or the rear, and I found myself across from a silver-haired and actually-Irish-but-not-from-Dublin gentleman for the thirty-minute trip. We struck up a chat, and, delighted by his animated eyes and lilting voice, I asked about Ireland (“home”), tourism (“the industry of the country now”) and the industrialization of Dublin: “We dawn’t get enough sun in ‘er innywey; we dawn’t need skyscrapers to block out what we do get now.”

He hopped off the train one stop before me, but not without wishing me safe travels, especially since I’m a young lass and alone and all, and wasn’t his daughter like me once? I headed on, smiling, to Bray, a seaside village, hoping to find more of the endearing, local atmosphere known everywhere as Irish.

I met more tourists. Swathes of them, but instead of the photo-snapping hordes of tour bus groups from Ohio, these were a trowel-and-bucket toting lot of extended families headed for the beach. Giving up on my quest to find “real” Ireland, I went for a wander down the high (“main”) street and found, to my delight, that Bray has a wonderful secondhand clothing industry. Pre-worn pants (“trousers”), purses and ties from 1973 and funny hats aplenty. With winter blowing in quickly, I found a necessary coat for 6 euro ($9, yes, cheaper than breakfast) in a thrift shop housed in an empty church. Signs on the wall warned me of the sins I would be committing at the expense of the homeless if I happened to fancy thrift-shoplifting. Though they didn’t speak to me, Ellen and Maureen seemed delighted to be volunteering there this afternoon.

Sweating a bit in my new purchase (which wouldn’t fit in my bag and was bulky to carry) I headed back to the hostel, with hopes of finding a friend to accompany me out to Dublin’s famous pub scene. I found an Arizonan named Jodi, and we set out for some music and maybe a Guinness.

We found music all right. Authentic Kentucky bluegrass in the second floor of a pub which, for reasons we felt better not knowing, smelled like jet fuel. We didn’t buy Guinness (partly because it would have set us back $7 and partly because I limit myself to one chemical influence at a time, and the jet fuel was rather heady.) Had we not had an absurdly ironic chat about how horribly touristy Dublin has become with two policemen from Michigan, we’d have left immediately.

Deciding we really couldn’t afford to stay out, we went back to the hostel and chatted about teaching with Mindy and Crystal from Canada, and then about England with Matt, Matt, Stefan and Bernie from Leicester.

On Wednesday and Thursday, I exhausted myself with the sights, especially everything having slightly to do with writing. Dublin has a stunning literary history, as many of its most famous revolutionaries were also writers. I admit to spending three hours in the two-room Dublin Writers’ Museum, taking notes and drooling on display cases housing early copies of Pygmalion. $9 to get into the museum, $8 for the usual lunch: sandwich from a plastic box in a grocery store.

After three days of exorbitantly-priced cranberry and cheese sandwiches, I was limited to free-admission attractions only, mostly art museums, parks, and churches. By Thursday, I had seen every piece of free art in Dublin, some of them twice, and the security guards at the National Gallery knew me by name. I went to two different Anglican church services in order to see Christ Church and St. Patrick’s Church for free (they usually charge $8 admission), said rosaries in two Catholic churches (which are always free) and walked laps in St. Stephen’s Green (hereby voted world’s coolest park) on three occasions. By the time I left Friday morning, I had spent a total of 16 hours in The Quays (pronounced “keys”) pub scandalously listening to the live Irish music and not buying any drinks, about which I felt bad until I learned they charge $9 a pint. Paying only for food, a sheep-shaped refrigerator magnet and entrance to the Dublin Writer’s Museum and Trinity College, I still managed to leave Dublin completely broke. And without stumbling upon any long-lost relatives. Though one woman in a shop told me that all of “us,” Tooheys and Naughtins and even Duffys and McCarthys, were from the west country.

Darn.

I guess I’ll just have to go back someday. When I’m earning a salary.

 

 

The Counterfeit Brit

9/29/2008

 

London is home sweet home to thirteen-ish million people.

 

Today, I became one of them.

 

Sort of. Definitely I haven't made any positive contribution to the community yet, unless you count saying "bless you" to the sneezer on the subway. Twice. (Call me Samaritan. Good Samaritan.) See, I'm kind of homeless and completely jobless at the moment, but I'm also doing a fairly good job about not panicking on either front. Honestly and completely superficially, I'm a bit more concerned that all the clothes I've brought are brown or blue (friendly colors for little foreign kids at summer camp) and London wears black, full stop. (A "full stop" is the punctuation mark America calls a "period." Never mind the raised eyebrows that lovely little difference has earned me the last three months.)

 

Not that I haven't launched myself faithfully, even wearing earth tones, into the job/house hunt. I started in the neighborhood my hostel's in – south of ritzy Hyde Park. It's got everything the rich Western traveler wants from London: Wal-mart-ish supermarkets, snazzy restaurants, cute coffee joints and expensive-looking bars.

 

And here's where my résumé fails me. My only food service experience is two years in Esch's deli wrapping cantaloupe, I don't know the difference between a cabernet sauvignon and a merlot, and "Likes coffee a lot" isn't quite the same as "Can build a venti skim macchiato with foam in five-point-eight seconds."

 

So when I walked into The Java Bean to enquire about the barista position advertised in their super-giant front windows, the manager seemed a bit surprised at my experience teaching English and cleaning cars and altogether blasé at my lack of barista-ing.

"So do you have any experience with coffee at all?"

Apparently "I drink lots of it and am a quick learner" is not the right answer. I got a "We'll call you," and decided to remain hopeful, but keep looking. I bought a cup of their joe out of curiosity, and it was the tastiest the UK's shown me so far. So I hope they call.

 

In the likely event that they don't, I scouted the rest of South Kensington for shop/café/restaurant jobs, very conscious of my under-qualifications. I wandered into two secondhand book shops because they might have mercy on English majors from Nebraska searching for "help required" signs, but with no luck. I rounded one corner to find a small, greasy café with a large, distressed sign in the window: "Help wanted immediately!"

 

This was a decision point. How desperate for a job am I, really? Desperate enough to smell like old chips for minimum wage? I could probably have this job soon; small businesses have loose application processes. In the face of indecision, I did what my mother would do. I gave it the sniff test. Stuck my nose in and inhaled.

 

Now, I'm no princess. But it smelled like a five-day job: I'm not going back there unless I'm still jobless in five days.

 

It was starting to get dark, and businesses were closing, so I opted for window shopping for "work wanted" signs in Notting Hill. I found a "Waiter/Waitress Required" sign in a Turkish café called "Manbara," and handed my résumé to two friendly chefs. No, the manager was not in, and I picture him tossing my English-teacher résumé out with the leftover salad tomorrow morning.

 

Just as my barista/shopgirl dreams were sliding down the Tube, a tiny advertisement in a shop window spoke hello. "Sales Assistant Wanted – Experience in Hairstyling Useful but not Required." Inside, rows and rows of Styrofoam heads with fake hair stared across the room at each other. A wig shop.

Perfect. I lived in my mother's beauty shop for seventeen years. I can spot a bad perm from a hundred yards, and a bad color job from two. I don't know how to put that on my résumé, but I'm going in that shop tomorrow, whether I'm in earth tones or not.

 

 

The Counterfeit Brit

10/07/2008

 

This summer, I went paragliding 300 meters above Hungary.

 

That was nothing compared to the flying-by-the-seat-of-my trousers I've done in London.

You may have laughed last week, but I was facing homelessness and joblessness in a city that has thirteen times more people than my entire state in the middle of a worldwide credit crisis and housing market crash and with no plane ticket home, nor job nor car when I got there. What to do?

 

I went looking. I scoured the streets of Notting Hill for shop jobs and left my résumé (here called a CV) in every single one with a "Hiring" sign in the window (minus the greaserie that failed the sniff test). I applied in a Turkish restaurant, four hotels, four paper stores, a wig shop and seven coffee shops. A shop selling blenders was hiring, so I wandered in and had a look around. In a move that had become routine, I smiled and handed over my CV. I got an on-the-spot interview.

Yes!

 

The owner, Mark, led me to an office under the stairs and we sat in folding chairs. (Classy.)

He asked a few questions, I gave a few answers. I told him I'd worked in a grocery about the same size as his store, and, though my CV says I'm a teacher, I know all about inventory, customer service, product handling, shelving and store care. He liked me. I could tell. This was good.

 

But then he said, "Are you a teacher? When will you go back to teaching?"

"Well, um, actually..." This was the time to tell him I have to leave in December because my visa's up. I braced myself and broke the news.

 

Apparently this broke the deal. No way was he going to hire me, only to have me ditch him right before Christmas, the busiest time for retailers.

 

Because Mark and I had established a pretty solid relationship in two minutes, I decided to exploit his business-y mind for a minute, and asked question that had me on the brink of panic all week.

"Is anybody in retail going to hire me?"

He winced. He didn't have to say no. I nodded, apologized for taking his time (because Brits apologize for everything), thanked him for his help, and left the blender store. On my way out, he called, "Do you want your CV back?" Ouch.

 

The wig shop hadn't called. Neither had any of the 234 agencies I'd visited or employers I'd e-mailed. I got six "Nice try, honey" e-mails in four days from staffers and hirers, and I was starting to panic.

 

For those of you thinking about moving to London in the middle of a credit crisis, listen closely. Don't. Absolutely no one in the corporate world is hiring. And since I can't mix a latte, I was afraid I'd have to swim home. What's worse, shop girls only make minimum wage, about five pounds an hour. I'd be paying 100 a week just to keep a roof over my head, and likely 25 in transportation. You do the math. I did it in my head every thirty seconds. Time to start staking claim to spots under London Bridge, I thought.

 

I wanted to cry.  I wanted my mum, er, mom. I wanted my American accent back, and to drive my own car on the right, and to have a job and a place to live. I almost even wanted to pay taxes.

 

And that's when Capita Education Staffing appeared in front of me. Well, on the right of me, but since I've been scouring shop windows all week, I couldn't miss it. "We want teachers!" it said in the window, sweet as a light-up Valentine's card with "BE MINE" in pink glitter singing that "Ooh I Want You" song from 1998.

 

I waited for Savage Garden to finish their serenade and strode in. The staff did a dance. London needs teachers, and, what do you know? I am one. "Do you have your papers with you?" they asked. "No," I said. (I'm not in the habit of carrying my University degrees, birth certificate, visa, blue card, teacher's certification, etc., in my pocket.) "I have them in the city and can send copies to you via e-mail today."

Teaching. Duhh. And the pay is three times what a shopgirl makes. I have an interview tomorrow morning, and I've contacted three more teaching agencies, just in case. Whew.

I'd have rather gone paragliding.

 

 

The Counterfeit Brit

10/14/2008

 

I moved to London on a Monday, having planned enough lodging for three nights. That gave me until Thursday, 5pm, to find a job and a place to stay within my budget and with a very, very short leasing term. The clock was ticking.

 

I'd been trying to plan my move to London for weeks. I registered on every London roommate finder website Google could find, including, yes, really, "easyroommate.com" (a legitimate leasings site, but, hmm.). I even spoke to a leasing agent, but she laughed at me when I told her my price range. I registered to attend "Flat Night Fever," an all-London event that boasted it brings 250 landlords and tenants together every week to help fill empty London rooms.

 

On Tuesday morning, I went to my visa agency for help in both the "I'm Homeless in two days" category. They have a wall of postings, and I scoured it. My eye stopped on a green card, a house looking for one female to occupy a room in a family home north of Kings Cross Station. It was at the top of my limit, price-wise, and I wasn't sure about moving into a family situation, but homeless Americans can't be choosy. I rang the number on the card, and the woman and I arranged a viewing for later that afternoon. I got directions and went early to survey the 'hood. It's still in London (zone 2), about a fifteen-minute Underground ride to Holborn, but just out of the reach of tourists and their extortion-level shop prices. It was no Hyde Park with white granite pavement, but safe.

 

I found the house easily ("easily" defined as "asking for directions fewer than 17 times"), a red-brick Victorian rowhouse.

 

When I buzzed the buzzer, a smart-looking woman answered and shook my hand, and I quickly found that this house was NOT the typical Victorian inside. Someone fun clearly lived here: contemporary paintings, violins propped in armchairs, a bright orange chaise, and bookshelves enough for Boston. "My room" had broccoli-colored carpet (hmm), but a window that looked out at trees and green space to match. I could live here, I thought. I told the woman so, and I also told her about my engagement to attend "Flat Night Fever," and said I'd phone in the morning.

 

At the event, which disappointed, with 50 potential tenants for 4 landlords (though I cared little as I got a free glass of wine), I found an Aussie with rent 25% less than the house in Finsbury Park. I was jobless, and he lived with five people aged between 20 and 40, from France, Australia, Africa, Israel, and England. It sounded fun, and much, much cheaper. I arranged for a viewing the next evening, and told him I was basically homeless and needed to move in ASAP. He said that was fine; I sent the house in Finsbury a "Sorry, but I've found a cheaper place, though yours is lovely" text.

 

In the mean time, Katrine in trendy Hammersmith found me on easyroommate.com. She e-mailed photos of her flat: a gorgeous place to live, in an unbelievable location. She was ready for me to move in right away, and right within my price range.

 

She also wanted me to send 800 pounds to Berlin via Western Union and meet her sister in Southwark for the key. "Act quickly; I have many interested in my fantastic property."

 

My "scam, Kerri, scam!" light went off, and I told "Katrine" she'd almost had me. Also I said I would be forwarding her e-mail to appropriate easyroommate personnel. (I didn't, but hiding behind my e-mail address makes me brave.)

 

So it was the cheap house, then. It wasn't easy to find (28 instances of "sorry, but where am I?"), and it was a 90-minute wander to a Tube station (I've heard it's 20 if you know where you're going). The neighborhood was beautiful, though, and the house even more so– massive living spaces and windows. "My room" had a double bed, wood floors and stained glass in the door. I was sold. I arranged to move in on Saturday, and took a bus to stay with a sweet friend in nearby Luton for the weekend.

 

Friday, they phoned. The room would not be available for two weeks. Also, I would need a massive down payment, and the monthly bills totaled more than the Finsbury room. Engage panic mode.

 

I phoned the woman with the orange chaise and violins. I apologized for the short notice and, in a trick only owning a small business could teach me, I promised to pay in cash. I moved in on Sunday, and they treated me to a beautiful dinner and continue to make me laugh. The girls let me help with their homework, and there's even a guitar to play. I'm home at last.

 

 

The Counterfeit Brit

10/21/2008

 

You wouldn’t think it, but there is a difference between “employed” and “working.” The key difference between the two is that the latter produces income.

And here I am, somewhere uncomfortably between the two because my lovely staffing agency hasn’t filed my paperwork yet. Urgh. I’m not impoverished, but cautious, which has been my basic budget since I moved away from the “Pleeeease, Dad?” financial plan years ago. I’m used to “shoestring,” and it’s especially fun in London. Here’s why.

1. “Just looking.” Walking is free, and the best way to meet a city is simply to look at it. Study how Londoners drive (certifiable insanity required), what people are carrying, what they’re reading, and you will see and hear and smell how London lives in a way no guided tour will allow. Wander along the Thames in bright sunshine, at dusk, or in a light shower, and dodge the joggers. Smell the curry on Brick Lane and try to match commuters’ pace in the mornings (keep left!). Attempt to count how often you see something named after Queen Victoria. Jaywalk fearlessly. Discover the tackiest tourist item in the city. Stick your tongue out at Oliver Cromwell’s statue as your personal revenge for burning Ireland. Be extra-polite; Londoners usually don’t bother, but love when you do. Piece together the City on foot, from Big Ben to St. Paul’s to Shakespeare’s Globe on the same banks Queen Elizabeth I knew. Take it in at your own pace, by simply looking.

2. Cheap-but-incredible theatre. I celebrated my employment with a ticket to see Kenneth Branagh (of modern Shakespeare fame) perform in Tom Stoppard’s version of “Ivanov.” It was magical, and Kenneth actually gazed at me during the second scene. Not because I’m beautiful, but because I was propped against the back wall in an electric green dress right underneath the EXIT sign. See, London theatre is half the reason I moved to London, and it can be really affordable (think movie ticket) if you don’t mind standing in the back. My advice: go directly to the theatre’s box office (the “half-price” agencies take a sizable cut) and shamelessly inquire about their cheap seats. If you go to a matinee, you could get upgraded in the event of a less-than-full theatre.

3. Only in London. There are four massive, world-class art museums in the city, all free. There are countless smaller museums, too, including crazy John Soane’s, whose Victorian home is now a museum, probably because museum staff couldn’t get the authentic Egyptian sarcophagus out of his basement. (And you thought your Aunt Ethel’s collection of thimbles was outrageous.) If you like Ancient Egypt, you can go see what Britain stole from it in the British Museum. And my favorite of all: the original manuscript of Jane Eyre, hand-written from Charlotte Bronte’s pen, lives in the British Library alongside Beatles lyrics and Jane Austen’s writing desk. No charge. None. Though they frown upon drooling on the cases.

4. The bus. Yes, I love the expediency of the Tube, but it doesn’t fit a shoestring budget. The latest mayor of London, besides being a comedian (another reason to love London?), has made bus transport the latest fad: about $1.50 per ride, and you can get almost anywhere in the city. Plus, no matter how smelly your seat partner is, riding on the top of a red double-decker bus will always be super-cool, even if you’re trying not to be a tourist.

5. Public libraries. They have books, and I like books. Especially British ones. If you want to take one (or nine) home, all you need is some type of snail mail with your name on it to prove you live nearby. Most have free computers and internet access, as well as DVD and CD rental. Added bonus: sitting in a public library for an hour is chicken soup for your faith in literacy and English education.

6. Charity shops. These are like America’s Goodwill stores, only smaller and sweeter and usually with a killer selection of books and VHS tapes for a pound or less.

7. Torture-chamber shopping. If you absolutely MUST engage in consumerism, go in, run your fingers through the fabric, touch the buttons, frustrate the staff by trying on every pair of shoes in the department, but “accidentally” leave all your money at home. Torture, perhaps, but financially savvy.

And when a tourist asks you for directions on Oxford Street, you can hope to help, whether you’re buying or just looking.

 

 

The Counterfeit Brit

11/04/2008

 

 I'm in London six more weeks, so you'd best hurry if you're going to come visit.

 

To get to my part of town, you'll have to take the Underground from the airport. Probably you'll smell funny when you arrive after an overnight flight from the States, so you won't care how the people squished in your train car smell.

 

When you come up from the Underground, find the place where all the buses are parked, but I'd recommend you walk past them. (If you come out the wrong exit, just keep making left turns. You'll get there eventually. Then take a left at the car detailing business (yes, I considered applying there), past the yellow plywood building selling fried chicken and the bar with live music on Thursdays. You'll start to smell the fishmonger four stores away, and walk past the cheap furniture places and barbers, the tiny, florescent-lit foreign grocers and magazine vendors. It's about a mile to my house, and to get there, you'll see the following:

 

-12 dry-cleaners that also sell cheap luggage

-four a pound-an-hour computer labs that also sell phone cards and donuts

-24 places to buy fresh fruit and vegetables from someone who doesn't speak English but makes sure to say "hello," anyway

-two Tesco franchises (corporate grocery stores where computer scanners say "Hello. Pleasescanyouritems," in the cheesiest of Brit accents.)

-a vegetarian Indian restaurant I'm dying to try

-a grocery store that sells 4969 varieties of halloumi cheese, canned goods that have labels in Turkish, and the best fresh bread around

-three charity stores that sell cheap books and excellent Halloween costume materials. They also send proceeds directly to people in my borough. Cool.

-one book shop

-one library (They know me there.)

-33582 places to buy kebabs and falafel

-234 beverage facilities, selling pints and/or cuppas                         

-one fish-and-chips shop and

-6,000 Victorian rowhouses – drab brick of course, save one that's bright yellow, and whose owners I'd duly like to meet. Like most of "old" England, the streets send themselves off at bizarre angles, and if you get lost on them, someone will direct you, provided you don't mind feeling like a silly American who's gotten horribly lost looking for Big Ben. (I do it all the time, but I'm notorious for carrying my pride in a nicely coordinated handbag.)

 

If you fancy a trek, continue up my street to huff and puff up the hill. It's worth it. From the top, you can see the City skyline through the quickly-falling autumn leaves, a view highly recommended early in the morning or at sunset. The view also means property gets more expensive, and the average income of the populace gets bigger.

 

Thus, when you pop over the hill, you'll find yourself in an area akin to a British version of Main Street, USA - Starbucks, electronics stores, cell phone vendors, over-priced bars, fitness centers with pink walls, a bridal shop, craftsy shops, real estate agents, beauty salons, and KFC. Since this is Britain, there are also places to buy Indian food and posh brands of digestive biscuits. Also, parking lots and drive-thrus are distinctly lacking.

So are Americans. Do come visit. It's nice here.

 

 

The Counterfeit Brit

11/10/2008

 

London is Europe's biggest city. If you're ever bored on the weekend, it's your fault.

 

Last Saturday, I rolled out of bed a little groggy, made some instant coffee (to which I've begrudgingly adapted), and read my pre-game reports for the Huskers' face-off with Kansas. Because I have no way of watching live Husker football, I needed a sixth win so I could watch "my boys," many of whom I tutored as freshmen at UNL, play in a bowl game in January.

 

Next, I hit an aerobics class across the street. I've never liked exercising in front of people, and especially not in a room with mirrors for walls, but four months of fried potatoes had settled on my rear. Desperate times call for desperate measures, and these "measures" were officially named "Sweating with Tina," and unofficially named "Satan is Alive and Inhabiting the Taut Body of Your Aerobics Instructor."

 

After a loooong stretch, some whining, and a shower, I headed downtown to meet friends at an art museum for the afternoon. Six of us - three Canadians, two Spaniards, and me – wandered around the Tate Modern for three hours. (I love London.)

 

A note about modern art: if you try to take it too seriously, you'll annoy me.

A warning about me: In a museum of modern art, I'll probably annoy you. I rename the pieces. Among my favorites: "I Egged My P.E. Teacher's House Last Halloween," "Oops," and "Alf: Self-portrait."

 

My friends were hungry, so we got Japanese noodles at a restaurant next door to a pub that William Shakespeare was known to frequent, and I sat across from a four-year-old London girl with ringlets whose chopstick skills put mine to shame. (I love London. Really.)

 

We hurried out of the restaurant to stand outside Shakespeare's Globe Theatre to  "Remember, remember, the fifth of November" with an enormous fireworks display. Guy Fawkes Day commemorates annually the public burning execution of a Catholic revolutionary during Queen Elizabeth's Protestant reign. Most neighborhoods celebrate England's power by setting papier-mâché figures alight in giant bonfires. I didn't see any effigy-burning, but as a Catholic myself, a fan of nonviolence, and a believer in my constitution-granted freedom to dissent, I think I would have found the flaming revolutionary a bit, um, morbid. But as the fireworks popped and the children around me clapped, I couldn't help but recognize the importance of the holiday in uniting a nation. Only in England.

 

When the fireworks were over, the crowd's attention fell on the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral across the river, where single words appeared on a calm blue background, one after another, in Arabic, French, Latin, English. "Love. Peace. Honour." My friends and I stood with the millions standing along the bridges and on the banks, appreciating the contemporary values exhibited by the display. Oh, London.

 

The words continued as we joined the masses milling about the narrow streets, looking for a pub or a Tube station, whichever we found first. Lured perhaps by the poetry appearing on its dome, we wandered behind St. Paul's, where, in the churchyard, a carnival, complete with exciting (and vomit-inducing) rides, was taking place. I was a bit startled by the contrast; I know of no other church that would host a traveling amusement park in its yard, but, hey, it's London.

 

We hopped on the Tube and went to Camden, a neighborhood and shopping area best described as "weird and wonderful." We wandered for a while, gawking at the transvestites and hookah vendors, tired from the day and lamenting the early hour (fully dark at six p.m.), and decided on a pub called The End of The World. The Canadians wanted to talk about the U.S. election, and we were all home before nine p.m. After another very long stretch of the hamstrings, some self-admonishment for eating noodles and washing them down with cider followed by a resolution to visit "Satan in Spandex" again tomorrow, I called it a night, too, very happy, in London.